Three days on an iconic river

On the list of Oregon’s greatest river trips, the John Day has always ranked high.

The second-longest undammed river in the United States snakes through deep, isolated canyons in eastern Oregon on a trip that features beautiful camping, great fishing and mellow rapids.

Problem is, the river is so isolated there are few places to access it — especially the most iconic section.

Historically, a 70-mile river trip between Clarno and Cottonwood Bridge was required to experience the John Day’s most stunning canyons, typically on a five- or six-day adventure that felt out of reach for people with small children or a lack of vacation days.

But this beautiful stretch got a little more accessible this season after the Bureau of Land Management purchased 11,000 acres to open up Thirtymile Creek Boat Access point.

The purchase means it’s possible to float the river in three days, down 44 river miles, rather than five days. And anyone worried the new access will lead to overuse need not fear, because a limited-entry permit system also came online this season, preserving the solitude in one of Oregon’s special places.

All of the changes — the new access and permit system — inspired me to head east earlier this summer with my 5-year-old daughter, Lucy, and old fishing pal Jim, into the realm of desert canyons, shady campsites and very hungry smallmouth bass.

Even though the new boat access makes for a shorter trip, that doesn’t mean this is an easy adventure to pull off.

From permits to shuttles to moveable toilet systems, there are a number of steps to complete before you even get on the river.

The first is a simple question: what type of boat will you float?

The nice thing about the John Day is that it’s probably the easiest among Oregon’s iconic rivers, whitewater-wise. The Thirtymile to Cottonwood stretch includes fun Class I rapids that keep you moving, but by rafting standards, it’s pretty easy.

I brought our 16-foot raft, frame and oars — the standard whitewater river setup. But other folks do this section in everything from canoes to stand-up paddleboards.

First and most important, you’ll need one of a limited number of permits to float the famous sections of the John Day from May 1 to July 15.

Late May and June are the most popular, due to the combination of warm weather and river flows high enough to keep you moving. Overnight permits cost $26 each and can include up to 16 people.

(There are six different river segments on the John Day that are permit-controlled, so take your pick. I’m focusing on just 44 miles, but there are charms on every section).

It’s also important to watch the river’s flow. Above 6,000 cubic feet per second, and it’s dangerously high. Below 1,200, and it’s pretty low, slow and rocky. We put-on at 2,600 cfs, and that felt about perfect.

A toilet system is another consideration. There are no bathrooms at the campsites, meaning Leave No Trace is a must. And yes, that includes your poop. You’re required to have a toilet system that travels with you to remove waste. They’re easy to find online and at some river gear shops.

Finally, once you’ve got the right boat, permit and toilet system, the final step is getting a shuttle. Trust me, getting someone to drive your car from the put-in at Thirtymile to the take-out at Cottonwood is well-worth the $100 it costs.

Lucy wanted to fish, and she was no longer going to accept any excuses.

My 5-year-old daughter had endured a long and rough drive, a long wait as we packed the boat and finally, getting soaked by a thunderstorm on the first river mile.

I rigged a blue fox lure onto her pink fishing rod and helped her toss it into the water, not really expecting her to catch anything right away.

“Dad!” she said a few seconds later. “I think I’ve got a fish!”

I figured she’d snagged the bottom and grabbed the rod, but instead of the dull pull of a snag, the line was alive. I quickly handed the rod back to her.

“That’s your fish!” I said.

She reeled it in, and I helped her bring a diminutive but feisty smallmouth bass into the raft.

It was our first but nowhere close to our last fish of the trip.

My pal Jim, fishing with a popper on a fly rod, caught the biggest of the group — a few maybe in the 16- to 18-inch range. We saw larger ones swimming near the boat.

On a three-day trip from Thirtymile, you have to make at least 15 miles per day. And while the John Day does move along, with occasional rapids, there are plenty of slow spots where you need to dig in and row.

The second day arrived with bright sunshine and quickly warming desert air. One reason the John Day is such a beloved trip is the weather is typically warmer and drier in the late spring than rivers in Western Oregon.

On our second day, it lived up to the hype. We made a camp breakfast of scrambled eggs and oatmeal before loading up the boat. As we did, the river ranger stopped in to check our permit.

I’m always happy to see rangers enforcing permit limits, and the ranger who visited us was friendly, checked out paperwork, and headed downstream.

“You’re going to enjoy the next few miles,” he said before leaving.

He was right. We floated around a horseshoe turn and below steep canyon walls. When it got too hot, we jumped into the river, and even floated with our lifejackets through the rapids. When clouds covered the sun, we focused on fishing.

The last day brought more fishing and swimming, and a final 15 miles of rowing. Gradually, power lines become visible on the tops of the canyons and the sensation of civilization closed in.

The take-out is a busy boat ramp full of kayaks, canoes and rafts all trying to get off the water.

The chance to enjoy the John Day canyons, whether for three, four or five days is a glorious thing not to be missed.

Urness can be reached at zurness@StatesmanJournal.com or 503-399-6801.